Which slotted/rotors should I get?

[99GrandTouring]

Hey guys I'm looking to get 4 new rotors and some really good pads..
I've decided to just keep the stock GT brakes and upgrade them.
Use, I auto-x and drag race and do some "spirited" driving from time to time....

I found these does anyone know if they are good?
Which brand rotors and pads would you all reccomend?
Keep in mind its a daily driver too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33564&item=2457229101

Thanks!

[WildPony98]

I just bought front rotors from Randy FRPP Cross drilled & Slotted and the pads he has on special.. and they've made a noticeable difference.. especially from 100-0 Randy told me he hasn't heard of any warpin of those rotors either.. so I would talk to him personally about them..

about the ones on ebay.. the store has 99.2% good remarks from customers so I guess he's trustworthy?

[Gene Fine]

Unless you're upgrading to larger brakes, stock rotors and good quality pads (Hawks, Performance Friction, etc) are sufficient. Those slotted ones look like they'd be fine, but you're not going to get any great advantage over stock with them. The advantage is in the pads.

As far as crossdrilled...don't bother. Crossdrilled is a waste of money. There is NO performance advantage with crossdrilled, and they're more prone to cracking. WildPony98, the reason that you feel a difference is not because of any performance gain due to rotors, it's just because they're new. Monitor those rotors for cracks. They will crack eventually.

[WildPony98]

k will do hopefully they dont! thanks Gene

[RandyStinchcomb]

Originally posted by WildPony98
k will do hopefully they dont! thanks Gene


they wont, mine have been on the front and rear of my car for 6 years and no problems. the cracking problem happened along time ago on certian cars wth certian rotors and were high speed race related issues.

[Gene Fine]

Originally posted by RandyStinchcomb
they wont, mine have been on the front and rear of my car for 6 years and no problems. the cracking problem happened along time ago on certian cars wth certian rotors and were high speed race related issues.

Yours may not have, but crossdrilled rotors are structurally inferior to a slotted or solid rotor. Crossdrilling was invented in the 50s to solve a problem with gasses that has since been solved with more advanced brake pad design. Now, there are only an aesthetic issue.

In a street car or a drag car, the problem may never materialize. However, autocross is VERY hard on brakes, and cracks will happen. I'm not saying that it's a flaw in the FRPP rotors specificially. It's an inherent problem in crossdrilled rotors in general. There's a reason why you'll never see a (road or autox) race car with crossdrilled brakes on it.

[RandyStinchcomb]

Originally posted by Gene Fine
Yours may not have, but crossdrilled rotors are structurally inferior to a slotted or solid rotor. Crossdrilling was invented in the 50s to solve a problem with gasses that has since been solved with more advanced brake pad design. Now, there are only an aesthetic issue.

In a street car or a drag car, the problem may never materialize. However, autocross is VERY hard on brakes, and cracks will happen. I'm not saying that it's a flaw in the FRPP rotors specificially. It's an inherent problem in crossdrilled rotors in general. There's a reason why you'll never see a (road or autox) race car with crossdrilled brakes on it.


well, if thats the case then you contradict yourself in another post on this fourm.

[WildPony98]

Yeah, I kinda figured that I wouldn't be wearin into them enough to cause that kind of damage.. either way good to know.. and I trust you Randy no worries and thanks again!

[RandyStinchcomb]

Originally posted by WildPony98
Yeah, I kinda figured that I wouldn't be wearin into them enough to cause that kind of damage.. either way good to know.. and I trust you Randy no worries and thanks again!

no problem Joe, I just didn't want you to worrie :D

[Gene Fine]

Originally posted by RandyStinchcomb
well, if thats the case then you contradict yourself in another post on this fourm.

These are the brakes I'm discussing in the other post. Note that they are quite a bit larger than the stock brakes.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL76/711321/1199444/13949351.jpg

I also said that I accidentally ordered the "street" kit, and that I have a set of solid rotors sitting in a box that comes to the track with me for when they finally do crack. I'm not going to throw out a set of $500.00 rotors.

The question in the other forum was whether they'd be allow out on the track, no whether they're good or bad. I also said there that they will crack.

[white_2kgt]

Originally posted by Gene Fine
However, autocross is VERY hard on brakes, and cracks will happen.
I'll have to take issue w/ that statement. I'm on my brakes at Autox for maybe 1 second each time, it's a hard 1sec but still not enough time to get hot. I have to run pads that heat up quickly just so I have _some_ brakes. However, I will agree with you until I am blue in the face that Slotted/Xdrilled rotors are fo-Da-bLinG :headbang:

--chad

[99GrandTouring]

so if I go with the hawks racing Pro-stop slotted rotors.....
Which pads?
Like I said I do "some" spirited driving on the street not alot and auto-x......
I'm mainling looking for a better brakes in auto-x'ing.....
So far I've been considering the EBC Green stuff pads?
Thanks!

[99GrandTouring]

Originally posted by 99GrandTouring
so if I go with the hawks racing Pro-stop slotted rotors.....
Which pads?
Like I said I do "some" spirited driving on the street not alot and auto-x......
I'm mainling looking for a better brakes in auto-x'ing.....
So far I've been considering the EBC Green stuff pads?
Thanks!

bump

anyone?

[Gene Fine]

I've used the Hawk Street pads before, back when my car was still a street car...not bad, a little dusty, good bite and wear, but I chewed them up pretty quickly opentracking. They should be fine for autox, though. The Hawk Race pads will shred your rotors, so I wouldn't use them. I've never used EBCs in a car, but that's the only kind of pad that I use on my motorcycle. If their car pads are anything like their bike pads, they're great quality. I think Tire Rack sells the EBCs, you may want to check their reviews to see what people say about them.

[aggie97]

Well, I just purchased the Brembo Gran Turismo setup and love it. It does create a ton of dust with the slotted rotors though.

As far as cross drilled rotors cracking, they all do and the ones that are pushed hard, heated really hot, then cooled, then hot/cold hundreds of times will eventually crack. You essentially releive the casting stresses in the metal by the heating/cooling process and the metal fails. Period.

As for Autox being hard on brakes....this is why I bought the brembos. The group I run with sets up HUGE tracks that are anywhere from 1.2 to 1.8 miles long with very slow parts and some 100+ mph parts. Space is easy to find here in TX!!!

I too am in the search of a good race pad and there are literally 20 or so brands that sell for the 4 piston Brembo calipers. I will try a street/race pad which is on the car now and plan to go to a Hawk full race pad in the future to see the difference.

When it comes to brakes on a street car. Standard rotors are just fine and the pads make the difference.

[99GrandTouring]

Well reading EBC sight, they reccomend the red pads for "muscle cars" that are generally heavy.....
I think i'll try them out..

[99GrandTouring]

so guys, what do you think when it comes to rotors.....
I know with newer age pads slotted isn't going to make that much of a difference....

However my question is this, should I get the hawk racing rotors up top, or spend twice to three times as much on some brembo rotors?

The thing I like about the brembo's is the are coated to keep them from rusting any...

Do you think those hawk ones would be = or better than stock?
Thanks!

[belacyrf]

Well unfortunately I dont' own a mustang, so my experience with mustange related products is nill. But I would avoid ebc pads. The reds are for supposedly for heavy street use but will fail and crumble under excessive and heavy use. Just stick with Hawk or Porterfield, as they make excellent pads. If you do road track days, and can afford it. It's probably a good idea to keep a set of pads for street use and one for race use. Certain pads are good in the cold, while some race ones will stop like crap in the cold and can certainly scar the rotors.

As for rotors, is there a reason you want slotted? Slotted is really only good for removing debris from your pad, and also will most likely reduce your pad life. A vented solid rotor is your best bet for performance, if available. Good Luck

[99GrandTouring]

My reasoning for sloteds is that they are less expensive than factory replacements and supposedly run cooler/clean the pads to keep noise down...

[white_2kgt]

You want pads, C-A-R-B-O-T-E-C-H, they will stop you QUICK! Scarry quick. Be prepared to clean your wheels though and often.

--chad

[99GrandTouring]

well my car is a daily driver so I really don't want a pad that creates alot of dust...
Basically I'm looking for something just a step above the stock pads/rotors..

[Big Daddy]

Originally posted by white_2kgt
You want pads, C-A-R-B-O-T-E-C-H, they will stop you QUICK! Scarry quick. Be prepared to clean your wheels though and often.

--chad

I run Carbotech when I do Open Track and they are by far the BEST PAD I HAVE EVER RUN!!! They dust like a mother but man if you need to stop the pads they sell will stop you FAST! I've have actually outbreaked another Cobra running Brembo 4 piston with Hawk racing pads with my Stock Calipers and Carbotech pads! :D :thumb:

[aggie97]

Originally posted by Big Daddy
I run Carbotech when I do Open Track and they are by far the BEST PAD I HAVE EVER RUN!!! They dust like a mother but man if you need to stop the pads they sell will stop you FAST! I've have actually outbreaked another Cobra running Brembo 4 piston with Hawk racing pads with my Stock Calipers and Carbotech pads! :D :thumb:

Not trying to test you but what was the weight difference in the two cars? Most cobras weigh about 400 lbs more than a GT......Driving techniques also vary.

I will look into Carbotech to see if they have pads to fit my brembos. The pads I have now dust real bad but that is what came with the kit.

[Gene Fine]

Originally posted by aggie97
Not trying to test you but what was the weight difference in the two cars? Most cobras weigh about 400 lbs more than a GT

Since when? An 03/04 Cobra weighs more than a GT, because of the iron block/supercharger, but the older SN95 Cobras are similar or less weight than the GT.

[Big Daddy]

Originally posted by aggie97
Not trying to test you but what was the weight difference in the two cars? Most cobras weigh about 400 lbs more than a GT......Driving techniques also vary.

I will look into Carbotech to see if they have pads to fit my brembos. The pads I have now dust real bad but that is what came with the kit.

Well my car has the aluminum block so stock to stock we should be about the same weight 3650lbs. NOW with what I've done to my car I've added probably a hundred pounds to it with bracing, roll cage, etc... That is net weight as I've droped some weight with the aluminum drive shaft, aluminum flywheel, etc.

Call Carbotech the guys there will help you select the correct pad for your application. They are great to deal with!! When I told him the weight of my car, the horsepower, the application I was putting the pads to use in, they set me up with what was then a brand new pad. It squeals to beat the band, it dusts like there is no tomorrow, it groved my brembo cryo-treated rotors, AND it reduced my stopping distance by over 1/4!!!!!! VERY IMPORTANT if you are putting the car on a road course.

Take care!:thumb:

[99GrandTouring]

so if I do buy these "inexpensive" slotted rotors, whats the worst that could happen to them? Warping?
do you guys think these would be an "alright" rotor? or at least = to stock?

[Big Daddy]

Originally posted by 99GrandTouring
so if I do buy these "inexpensive" slotted rotors, whats the worst that could happen to them? Warping?
do you guys think these would be an "alright" rotor? or at least = to stock?

Who's inexpensive rotors? I would think that they should be comparable to stock rotors.

[99GrandTouring]

well compared to other slotted ones that are $300 or so for a set, these are $140 for a set..
The hawks "pro stop" ones listed in the first post of this thread..

[Big Daddy]

Originally posted by 99GrandTouring
well compared to other slotted ones that are $300 or so for a set, these are $140 for a set..
The hawks "pro stop" ones listed in the first post of this thread..

I would think they are at least as good as stock. And yes the worse thing that can happen is they warp and you have to get another set for $140. Sorry I can't view the link you posted the place I'm working doesn't allow you to go to auction sites! :nono:

[aggie97]

Originally posted by Big Daddy
Well my car has the aluminum block so stock to stock we should be about the same weight 3650lbs.
Take care!:thumb:

Well, I guess I am lucky then as my car in race trim at the drag strip was 3380 with me in it. I weigh 240. Now put the passenger seat in, the torque arm and the 4 pt roll bar and i am sure I am close to 3500 with me in it...

I am in the process of losing the A/C equipment and a few other weight saving ideas, most of it from the nose of the car and hopefully getting down to 3400 race weight. Should be interesting!!!

[aggie97]

Update on actual race weight of my GT, cage, 2 seats, steeda UL's with hoosiers, no A/C and driver.........3310lbs.

I don't know where you guys are buying these heavy ass cars but my GT Deluxe is a light sumbitch!!!:thumb: