Motor Mounts!

[MTCFORUM]

I should probably have explained for some of our newer members at some point that I am a paranoid neophyte when it comes to working on my car. That explains my derth of stupid questions....
(note that I make up for it by actually being good and handy with a wrench once I get going)

Anyway, several people have told me to check my motor mounts & tranny mount, as I have and have alwasys had excessive vibration at idle.

I just whipped out my handy-dandy shop manual, and it looks like I can't get to them without dropping or at least taking loose and lowering the front engine subframe.

I was looking for some real world input on this endeavor. If it's a huge fiasco or not possible or something, it would be nice to know that BEFORE I am a dirty, greasy mess....

I'll be trying this next saturday, along with sizing up the rear end swap, sizing up O2 and IAC changes, and installing my trans cooler.

TIA,
Scott<BR><BR>
[Modified by Scottland, 9:51 PM 2/24/2002]

[MTCFORUM]

Well I wouldn't bother to drop the subframe just to check your motor mounts. That is not an easy job.

I would suggest the old "put your foot on the brake as you shift back and forth from drive to reverse a few times" test, and see if you see or hear anything (clunking, excessive movement, etc). Get somebody else to brake and shift while you watch under the hood.

[MTCFORUM]

here is my 2 cents worth.

MY motor mounts were SHOT! THey had an 1" or more of play in them in every direction.

I never detected any vibration during idle.

Now to replace them, the bottom bolts are easy to get to.. but the bolts on the block will be TOUGH, there are 3 bolts on each side. Now in all actuality there are only 3 bolts and 3 studs. On the three studs, there are grounding straps, a tranny line holder thingie Now these nuts will be a bitch to get off without gettin the stud to come loose.

Here is the reality.

You have to drop the K member ( would drop it about 3" which is about the max with out yanking your steering rag joint off) , support it, then have a hoist that will raise up on the engine,

I estimate 12 hours of labor incoved. If you have any more question, you have my e-mai laddy, I would explain to you all that is involved. If you wantot call I'll shoot you my number. I hope this helps

[MTCFORUM]

Dan, the car vibrates in or out of drive, with or without the HVAC on. I'll try in/out of gear, gas/brake in gear when I get another person around to help me.

What I am reading here is either my motor mounts aren't the problem, or they are really, really shot. I have had this problem since 45K and I am at 80 now, if anyone thinks it makes a difference.

I'm not sure what I am going to do. I'm getting under the car on Saturday - just to investigate, not necessarily to do the work. I'll let you guys know. Thanks for the input...

[MTCFORUM]

Well I was hoping to save you a lot of work, but if they are worn out, well.....

You should talk to Johnny Langton - he makes solid motor mounts for the MN12s. You may not want to go this route as they can transmit quite a bit of vibration through the chassis of the car, but they definately don't wear out!

Good luck with whatever you end up doing!

[MTCFORUM]

So, I played with the car yesterday.

I do not believe the motor mounts are shot. The motor doesn't move much in the engine compartment, and I couldn't move it around by pushing on it against the mounts.

Thanks for the warnings, it does look like a heck of a job.

I think I will try the IAC and o2 sensors, they look easier (and cheaper)

Thanks for the help,
Scott

[MTCFORUM]

I had mine replaced a couple months ago when I had my k-member replaced. Don't ask..... Anyway my 97 had about 95,000 on it and one side was completely shot. I ended up using t-bird mounts as replacements. The work fine and I found them in town for the shop. It was either that or wait 3 more days. I still need to replace my transmission cross member mounts. The transmission mount seems OK. Does anyone know if there are poly tranny mounts available. Replacing the engine mounts is a pretty tough job and you need a few special tools. One is a torx bit an 18 I think but can't remember. The other is one of those engine supports that go across the shock towers to support the engine while you lower the k-member out of the way. This would also be a great time to do a sway bar, upper and lower control arms, steering rack, long tube headers, and anything else you can think of. Better to only have to do it once! Good Luck! The car looks really neat with the k-member removed.

Boozer <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emcocktl.gif" BORDER="0">
97 Green Mark VIII

[MTCFORUM]

MN12 performance sells a solid rubber mount istead of fluid filled but it's not poly. <IMG SRC="http://www.mn12performance.com/mn12parts/trans-mount/trans-mount.jpg" BORDER="0">

[MTCFORUM]

That same mount is made by Pioneer Automotive I bought one at OReily for about $20. p/n 622707

[MTCFORUM]

MN12 K-Member drop.
<IMG SRC="http://members.tccoa.com/bigscott/Cougie/K_member.jpg" BORDER="0">

[MTCFORUM]

Good info Dan!! I'm glad he threw mine in with another purchase as a "special"

[MTCFORUM]

Kudos belong to Johnny L for that info. I also benefitted! The list price on that piece is about $39 fyi

[MTCFORUM]

Thanks for the great information guys. I will be getting the solid rubber mount ASAP. I guess the transmission crossmember mounts are dealer only and not available in poly. Has anyone had to replace these? There are 2, they mount the crossmember to the body/frame. I would like to replace all 3 at the same time. Thanks again guys.

Boozer
97 Green Mark VIII

[MTCFORUM]

I should have mentioned that Johnny found them at Advance Auto. They were an off the shelf item at ORielly's.

[MTCFORUM]

Excessive vibration at idle on my 93 was caused by bad sparkplug wires.

Todd