another nitrous question......

[MTCFORUM]

I have a N.O.S. powershot setup, 2 solinoids and the valve to pressureize the fuel regulator. Now my question is can i use one of the solinoids as a fuel solinoid? I want to install it as a wet system, i already have the fogger nozzel and jets. If i cant do this what is the diffrence between the Nitrous and fuel solinoids?

Josh<BR><BR>
[Modified by JSkidonenko, 7:05 PM 3/31/2002]

[MTCFORUM]

They should be marked. Never try to use a N2O solenoid for fuel or vice versa, the seals aren't compatible. It sounds like you have 2 N2O solenoids by the way you put this.

I generally will use 1 fuel solenoid and 3 N2O solenoids. One is just for the purge so it can be one of the small ones. The other 2 I put 1 right after the other for the main system. Reson being, if the N20 solenoid hangs open, even just a little, bad things happen in a hurry obviously, and I've seen that happen. So having 2 solenoids reduces that possibility a lot.

[MTCFORUM]

ah, exactly what i wanted to know. One more for ya, is there a brand preferance on the solinoids? I have a Nitrous Works bottle, NOS N2O solinoids and a Nitrous Express Nozzle, so im not worried abo mixing brands

Thanks
Josh

[MTCFORUM]

All I've ever used is the NOS stuff, so I guess that's my preference.

The important thing is to have properly sized solenoids. I guess this just has one nozzle? If so, I'd think the smallest solenoids are fine.

[MTCFORUM]

yes one nozzel, into the throttlebody. some one told me that i need to run the nozzle after the egr valve in the intake. Is this something i need to do or can i run the nozzel in the throttle body? What what will happen if i do not run a purge valve other than a delay in the time the nitrous takes to get to the nozzel?

josh

are you going to the track this fri?

[MTCFORUM]

No the nozzle doesn't have to be after the EGR, I've seen them put into the rubber tube even.

It will work fine with no purge, you'll just get a slight delay sometimes.

Yes, I'll be there Friday.

[MTCFORUM]

I hate some stang guys. A guy I work with saw the setup I was going to run. he proceded to tell me that if i run a wet shot the fuel will puddle in the intake, and the first little backfire i get will blow my intake up, i think its BS but am not a nitrous junkie yet. So i asked can I run my Fogger nozzle only hooked up the the nitrous port and then hook up the valve to the fuel pressure regulator, he said it would run way lean if i did that.

My questions:
#1 Will running a wet shot on my setup be hazardous?
#2 If so can i run my Fogger nozzle as a dry setup (it is a NX Shark)?

Josh

What time is every one going to be at the track till? i have a rehersal dinner to go to but it would be worth the trip to me just to hang around for a few hours

[MTCFORUM]

I think with running any power adder you have to expect that one day you migh have an issue. You are fooling yourself if you think that you are bullet proof. I think a wet system is a safer setup than a dry system and I have heard of pooling issues with other setups but never read any issues with a 5.0L but I have never really paid a whole hell of a lot of attention to a lot of those guys that talk out of there ass, I know where to go and who to ask when I need help and knowledge.

Jason

[MTCFORUM]

Here is what a book I have says about wet systems:

"The upper intake manifold on a 5.0 was never designed to flow an air-fuel mixture, and squirting fuel down it will result in puddles and uneven distribution. But, in practice, wet manifold nitrous systems do flow fuel through the upper intake and make plenty of power doing it."

They go on about the danger of a backfire on a wet system. Then say:

"Casual street nitrious users are best off with a dry manifold system."

Basically you just can't get silly on the tuning and cause a backfire on a wet system. At the least a backfire would bent your throttle blade into a taco. At the most it will crack your intake and start a car-becue.

[MTCFORUM]

I agree, thats why I am asking KD. By no means do i think my engine is bullet proof, I am only going to be running a 75 or 50hp shot, the 50hp first. I know he is the the most reliable source, this is a guy running a 150hp dry shot on a stock shortblock, he's on his 3rd assembly. Since i have almost no knowlege of Nitrous, i know what it does, but am not knowlageable on what is the best way to set it up.

Josh

What is a guess of the timeframe down ant ennis on fri?

[MTCFORUM]

a 91 Base 5.0 bird should have forged pistons <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emsmile.gif" BORDER="0">

Well, when I had a 91 sport I checked into it, and my sport did, so I would imagine that your base does too.

And are you sure your car isn't a sport? Do you have cloth interior, and if so does it look diffrent than all the other years of cloth interior? Also do you have the trim stripe across the side moldings?

I learned that the "Sport" trunk badge was only an option on the sport package, so there are some sports running around that didn't say sport.

guess I threw this thread off topic, sorry <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emsmile.gif" BORDER="0">

[MTCFORUM]

It is a base 5.0, and does have forged slugs, i just want a little more pep at the track. It has the base inst. cluster and and seats. It does have a trim molding around the whole car, black with chome in the center, and it actually had 2.73's with an open diff, what did the sports have?

Josh

[MTCFORUM]

My sport had 2.73's open diff. I will e-mail you some interior and cluster pics, that's the easiest way to tell. Did you have a tach?

You can tell by looking at the seats that they are diffrent than the LX cloth ones. I'll also get you a pic of that when I get home tonight!

Later!
Brian

[MTCFORUM]

If you have a NOS Stage 1 or Stage 2 system, they are designed to be dry systems. I ran a Stage 1 system for over 4 years on my stock blocked '93 (over 100k on the clock as well)...ended up cooking the AOD, but that's another story. Anyway...I recommend NOT playing around with running a nitrous system using parts in an application it's not designed for. Personally, I would not run a wet system through the TB and upper intake. A fogger plate or direct port is a lot better way to do it.

Nitrous is heaver than air and this is how people can get into trouble when not running 2 solenoids, not cleaning the filter, bypassing safety systems, etc etc. It can puddle in the intake and ruin your day. Nitrous is not flammable, but the oxygen component is released when subject to heat and high pressure (like in a cylinder). If there isn't enough fuel to maintain a safe A/F ratio with the additional O2 from the nitrous, well, you can use your imagination. The other component of nitrous is nitrogen, which is inert and acts as a 'buffer', keeping things from getting out of hand in the preignition/detonation/temperature areas.

Based on my experience, the Stage 1 kit is relatively safe, and a boatload of fun on the street. Do not get greedy or stuff will break. Also, an upgraded fuel pump and adjustable regulator are recommended, for a little more insurance and peace of mind. The worst thing that could happen is running out of fuel while on the bottle...

[MTCFORUM]

so i should bite the bullet on my NX fogger nozzle and get a dry one right? I already have the fuel pressure regulator and plan on ordering a pump along with the HOP switch, i have the 2 solinoids and a new filter fitting, i also plan to dissassemble the solinoids and clean them because the orig owner used teflon tape, i heard that is bad ju-ju also.

[MTCFORUM]

bjherron===&gt; Could you e-mail me those pics also (at Werty357@attbi.com). I think I have a Sport that is labeled LX on the back. I have the chrome stripe that goes around the back, the same style wheels that came on the Sport, and the Sport style guages (w/ tach. and fuel gauge above the volt guage). I would like to see if the rest of the interior is correct for a Sport. The only thing left then will be to measure the sway bars to prove it is an unlabeled Sport model.

[MTCFORUM]

I moved the sport thread here, and It has some pics

<A HREF="http://mtcforum.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=288" TARGET="_blank">http://mtcforum.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=288</a>

[MTCFORUM]

Josh I do feel dry is a bit safer on most long runner manifolds. So yes you'll need the proper nozzle to go with the fuel pressure thing(whatever they call that).

Be sure to have plenty of fuel pump, run a fuel pressure safety switch and a WOT switch.

You can get away with more than 50 or 75 but it's up to you, it will detract from engine life of course. I have been 11.60's with an untouched 89 5.0 longblock in an LX hatch.

[MTCFORUM]

k, exactly what i needed to know, thanks

Josh

since i need to drop my tank im just going to install a 255lph pump so i dont have to do it later, and i will be ordering the fuel pressure switch and have the WOT one to put on

[MTCFORUM]

I had been trying to think of a way to have a "safety" in case the N20 solenoid hung open on my bird. I never thought about the dual solenoids with one being a safety in case another one hung open. But he's telling you the truth about the fuel pump. Even with a wet shot make sure you upgrade the pump and watch the fuel pressure when getting ready. I've run a NX wet shot on my 95 bird with a 99GT motor for a long time now at 75 and 100hp settings and never have had a puddling issue or intake problems. I flip the switch at around the 60ft mark and run it to about 5700 rpm's in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. Have fun. N20 isn't the devil people make it out to be. By the way, did I mention thank god for people like KDanner <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emwink.gif" BORDER="0">

[MTCFORUM]

For what its worth
I am a Mustang guy... but dont shoot me <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emsmile.gif" BORDER="0"> Il try and talk out my mouth and not my ass <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emsmile.gif" BORDER="0">
The problems with the Wet system as far as puddling goes has been with a stock intake that has been Extrude honed....I honestly dont know exactly why But I have seen 2 backfire and explode the intake at the track. It may happen on others but I have not heard or seen this
Ed
92GT

[MTCFORUM]

KD, Ive got the compucar kit with a purge kit, is the purge solenoid the same as the nitrous solenoid, basicly what im asking is can i take the purge solenoid and use it as a back up like you recommended? id rather have the safety than the purge, i can hit it durring the burnout to purge it.

[MTCFORUM]

According to the NX literature the shark blasts the Nitrous Oxide through the gasoline stream, causing fine enough atomization to avoid puddling. If you have a shark nozzle you don't want to use now, let me know, I might just want it for a second stage on my system. Side note, an MSD RPM gate switch really helps, it won't let the Nitrous oxide flow if the RPM is to low, and you can set it to cut right before the shifts. I love mine.
Rusty

Oh BTW I'm running +150HP wet NX kit.

[MTCFORUM]

hehehe, I got into the 13's :D

[MTCFORUM]

I have a 1996 4.6L thunderbird. Im thinking about running nitrous, But the thing is i really dont know what to run. I only want to do like a 50-75 shot (I saw a kit that was adjustable from 20-125hp so i think that would work) But should i just run the nitrous right into the air intake? or i have seen the nozzles for direct port injection where your fuel injector sits right on top of it.

So what im trying to ask is what should I run with my car?

[MTCFORUM]

Next best is a wet system, install the nozzle 6inches before the throttle body in the intake tube.